Raccoon Control, Raccoon Removal, Raccoon Prevention Vancouver, Surrey, Delta

RACCOON CONTROL AND PREVENTION

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Raccoons sometimes come indoors to nest. They are more likely to convert an attic or basement into a latrine. Raccoons are usually solitary animals, but groups of raccoons urinate and defecate in the same place to avoid spreading their scent across their feeding range.

Following tips can help to keep raccoons away from becoming a pest problem.

Don’t feed the animals.

raccoon CONTROL

Raccoons are attracted to gardens or homes because they offer a food resource and potential den sites. Efforts to reduce available food can include using metal garbage cans with secure lids. To prevent raccoons from tipping over garbage cans, place the cans in a rack or tie them to a secure post. Pet food left outdoors should be removed before nightfall. Pick up fallen fruits and nuts frequently. Never intentionally provide food for raccoons, and discourage your neighbors from this practice as well; it only attracts more raccoons

Frightening

A variety of materials, gadgets, and devices designed to frighten raccoons and other wildlife are on the market. These include flashing lights, sound-producing devices, and water-squirting units, all of which can be activated by motion detectors. In addition, radios, scarecrows, and flags and windmills that spin or flutter in the wind have been used. Unfortunately, none of these are very effective and, at best, may frighten only for a few days, after which the raccoons seem to ignore them, having learned that they present no real threat.

Habitat Modification

If possible, remove woodpiles or other materials raccoons can den in or under. Thinning out overgrown shrubbery will reduce cover. To reduce access to the roof, tree branches that overhang rooftops should be cut back if possible, leaving a gap of at least 5 feet between the roof and the tree. Trellises and arbors attached to homes may facilitate access to the roof and consideration should be given to their removal. While habitat modification is often helpful, it is rarely a total solution.

Exclusion

Exclusion is the key to eliminating den sites

Roof Vents
Constructed of light weight aluminum or plastic, they are no obstacle for animals seeking entry into attics.

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Chimneys
If not screened properly, they make suitable living quaters for raccoons and squirrels. Birds often fall into open chimneys and become stuck at the bottom. Sometimes these animals even enter the "living space" of the home.

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Plumbing Vent Pipes
If left unprotected, they are an invitation to animals seeking den sites inside of the house. Once inside the pipe, wildlife often become stuck and obstructs the normal function of the buildings plumbing system.

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Stove & Bathroom Exhaust Vents
If unsecured, they make ideal nesting sites for birds and sometimes squirrels. This results in noticeable sounds, odours and insects.

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Roof and Fascia Spaces
If not properly constructed or due to deterioration, they offer an opportunity for wildlife to chew on the free edge of the wood and gain entry into the attic.

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Roof - Soffit Intersection
If left unscreened, they can be easily manipulated by an animal from the outside in order to establish a den site inside the attic space.

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Make trespassing into your yard a shocking experience.

Electric fences deliver a painful but harmless jolt of electricity to raccoons seeking to enter your property. To set up an electric fence, you will need electric fence posts, which are usually iron rods about 1/4 inch (6 mm) in diameter, plastic insulators, electric fence wire, and a charger. The fence is set up around the entire perimeter of the property you wish to protect, the first wire strung onto the insulators at a height of about 6 inches (25 mm) and the second wire about 12 inches (50 mm) off the ground. Never connect an electric fence directly in household current. Either use a solar battery or an approved step-down transformer to power the fence. Some states and cities require that you attach a plastic warning sign to the fence.

Electric fences only need to be powered form dusk until dawn.

Never handle dead or live raccoons or their unwashed cages with your bare hands.

In parts of Canada, up to 67% of raccoons tested carry roundworms, parasites transmissible through their feces to humans. Roundworm infections usually result only in allergic reactions, but in the very young and the very old they can cause death. Raccoons can also transmit bacterial infections, ticks, lice, mites, and fleas.

Never hold a raccoon with your bare hands. Be sure to rinse traps with hot water and detergent after every use, especially before they are put away for storage.

Trapping

Raccoons are fairly easy to trap; however, occasionally a clever and cunning animal will be quite elusive. A live cage-type trap is usually the preferred trap for homeowners, although others are available that may be used by professionals to capture the more difficult animals. The single-door trap should be sturdily constructed and its dimensions should be at least 10 x 12 x 32 inches. Larger 15 x 15 x 36 inch traps are even better. Canned tuna or canned fish-flavored cat food make excellent baits but may also attract non-target cats and dogs. To avoid catching cats, try using marshmallows, grapes, prunes, peanut butter, or sweet rolls. Small pieces of bait should be placed along a path leading up to the trap. The rear of the trap should be covered with 1/2-inch wire mesh to prevent the raccoon from reaching through the trap from the outside to steal the bait. Traps should be well anchored to the ground or weighted to prevent the animal from tipping the trap over to obtain the bait. Traps should be set at night and closed in the morning to avoid trapping non-targets. Remember, raccoons are intelligent and clever animals. They are also powerful and can be vicious when trapped or cornered.